Other Caves of Durness

NGR: NC 416 679

Smoo Cave’s not so famous but equally as fun little sister for the serious caver, located ~400m west of the mouth of the Geodh Smoo. This sea cave that has formed within the Sailmhor dolostone is an odd labyrinth of interconnecting passageways with several chambers of various sizes. The cave takes it’s name from the large rock formation in the cliff at the cave’s entrance which doesn’t just resemble an elephant, but clearly is an elephant! Accessing the site requires a cautious scramble grade climb (as defined by the Scottish Mountaineering Club) down a steep rocky slope from the grassy cliff top. The cave is tidal (i.e. fills to the roof) and footwear with good grip is absolutely essential due to the very slippy nature of the entrances, especially on a falling tide.

The site actually consists of two separate caves, one of which is a sizeable maze with rock arches reminiscent of Smoo Cave (minus the stream water) and the other a small crawl entrance (more often a controlled downwards slide*) into a surprisingly large main cavern. Depending on the chosen route, the cave can be as simple or as ‘sporting’ as one wishes with alternative routes of varying passage size around the cave ranging from a crouch to flat out crawls in places. *Beware as if the rock in the entrance is too slippery then you may have difficulty getting back out the cave.

NGR: NC 386 673

Colin discovered this freshwater cave midway up a cliff overlooking Loch Borralie in 1992 when it was no more than 1m long. After some careful digging through peat and silt to expose some classic keyhole passage within dolomitic limestone (of the Croisaphuill Fm), it is now 35m of tight muddy crawl with a ‘chamber’ at the end barely large enough to turn around in, saving a nasty feet first return leg. This isn’t so much a leisurely cave (far from it!) but an archaeological dig of national significance. So far the cave has yielded remains of human (ancient of course), wolf, pig, deer, suspected hyena but most crucially the oldest lynx ever discovered in Scotland at 7258 +/- 24 years old – official! See letter from the National Museum of Scotland / SUERC plus photograph of bones retrieved (lynx tooth included) below…

NGR: NC 386 673

Colin discovered this freshwater cave midway up a cliff overlooking Loch Borralie in 1992 when it was no more than 1m long. After some careful digging through peat and silt to expose some classic keyhole passage within dolomitic limestone (of the Croisaphuill Fm), it is now 35m of tight muddy crawl with a ‘chamber’ at the end barely large enough to turn around in, saving a nasty feet first return leg. This isn’t so much a leisurely cave (far from it!) but an archaeological dig of national significance. So far the cave has yielded remains of human (ancient of course), wolf, pig, deer, suspected hyena but most crucially the oldest lynx ever discovered in Scotland at 7258 +/- 24 years old – official! See letter from the National Museum of Scotland / SUERC plus photograph of bones retrieved (lynx tooth included) below…

NGR: NC 381 687

This interesting sea cave lies in the cliffs on the southern side of Balnakeil Bay near Durness. It can be reached either by abseiling into the roof by way of a collapse on the cliff tops or by a short swim up a geo at low tide or, with care, by boat. The cave is liberally endowed with stalactite / flowstone / gour formations (especially the rear section hidden beyond a low flat-out crawl at the back of the pebbly beach) and is well worth a visit for those able to do so safely. Photos below by Peter Glanvill

NGR: NC 37486 62680

Discovered by the Smoo Crew in June 2018 on top of the spur that separates the two streamways at Ach a’ Chorrain, this is the longest section of known freshwater passage on the Durness peninsula (over 150m of open passage). This sporting cave consists of an inclined entrance slope that leads into a low but wide and inclined boulder-floored ‘chamber’, with a further ~5m drop through boulders revealing an extensive stream section that varies from ‘comfortable walking’ to ‘hands and knees’ size. Much of the cave is characterised by sharp flakes and chert nodules, hence knee/elbow pads come highly, highly recommended! A river runs through the upper part of the cave in wet weather and makes the lower passages somewhat more ‘entertaining’.

WARNING: THE CEILING OF THE ENTRANCE PASSAGE IS CURRENTLY UNSTABLE AND IS LARGELY HELD TOGETHER BY A ‘KEYSTONE’ THAT WILL PROBABLY COLLAPSE THE PASSAGE IF MOVED. THE 5M DEEP BOULDER SLOPE IS ALSO UNSTABLE AND EXTREME CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN NOT TO DISLODGE ANY OF THE LARGE BREAKDOWN BLOCKS. EXPERIENCED CAVERS ONLY!

NGR: NC 389 640

This ‘caver’s cave’ is found in the Sarsgrum area by following the Allt Acnaidh upstream from the main road (streetview) for 1.5km , just before Durness’ rare section of woodland ends. The low entrance sits a few metres up the northern bank at the base of a rocky outcrop and leads into 35m of relatively tight (but not too difficult) dry passage. This freshwater cave has formed within some colourful dolostones of the Sangomore Formation and contains some well decorated sections that should never be disturbed. The cave probably extends further but is choked at various points, particularly at the far end where ceiling collapse has blocked the way on. A narrow passage on the left-hand-side once a few metres inside bends back around down to a lower level, ending in a very small chamber beneath the entrance that is *just* large enough to turn around inside (saving an awkward feet-first trip back up the tight slope)

NGR: NC 38849 68118

The entrance to this freshwater cave is found on the western side of Loch Croispol at the base of a rocky outcrop just a few tens of metres beyond a stone dyke. The entrance (that is visible from the Craft Village) requires a flat out crawl across some boulders but the passage soon opens up into some wide roomy passage which you can walk along. The cave closes down after 15m or so with a large flake preventing any further progress. A bit of ‘bang’ one day may reveal some further passage in the direction of Loch Lanlish.

NGR: NC 374 627

These are a handful of short freshwater caves within Croisaphuill / Balnakeil Formation limestones, located upstream of the Allt Ach a’ Chorrain from ‘Little Bridge’ near the southern end of the Kyle of Durness (Streetview). Knee pads are recommended due to the numerous small nodules of chert and differentially dissolved fossil burrows that protrude from the rocky floor like ‘coral’ (although there is sand cover in places).

The most obvious of these (Uamh an Coireil / Coral Cave) is found at the base of a cliff section where the river splits into left & right parts (left hand wall of the right hand steam valley). This is a draughting tube that continues for a total of 35m, mostly a simple hands and knees crawl but one that eventually requires some awkward flat-out crawling over boulders to reach ‘Scorpio Chamber’ before the whole thing eventually chokes.

One cave known Uamh As Eugmhais Crioch is located further upstream from this. Although it becomes too tight for anybody after 65m, the Gaelic name means ‘Cave That Never Ends’ as it is one of the most notorious caves in Scotland for being tight and arduous… which would be bad enough without it frequently flooding to the roof and having to dam the stream to gain entry. If you’re an experienced and incredibly masochistic caver, then this may be the very cave for you!

​Along the separate left hand valley and beyond Uamh nan Clachan Dubhan, a double opening on the north bank of the streambed is known as ‘the Nostrils’. These lead into a very narrow rift that goes on through water for ~10 metres before becoming too tight. Another short cave with another tight entrance can be found diagonally opposite this in the southern bank of the surface streambed.

NGR: NC 369 671

Whilst visiting from Germany, some friends (Arie and Dagmar) were walking along the beach on the Kyle of Durness, and discovered a new cave. This came to light in May ’14, when they showed photographs they had taken of it. Quickly realising that this was a new cave that had been revealed after a storm removed a sand dune, we made arrangements to meet the next day, so they could show me the exact location. The first chamber is called Chamber Dagarie, because of Arie and Dagmar. This sea cave has formed within the Durness Limestone (Eilean Dubh dolostone if one wants to get pedantic) that has allowed numerous flowstone deposits to form throughout it. New chambers will be explored as the tides permit. Click here for survey.